By Lori Budd of Exploring the Wine Glass
A Storied Past for the Viognier Grape
Viognier (vee-own-yay) has had its ups and downs. It has faced the brink of extinction and survived and ultimately now thrives. Originating in France’s Rhône Valley, its first feat was surviving the phylloxera infestation in the late 19th century. Phylloxera, an aphid-like insect which is native to North America, became a stow away and almost destroyed the entire European wine industry.
During the mid 1800s, it was common to import plants from overseas. With no natural defense to the pest that feeds on roots of Vitis vinifera grape and certain rootstocks, it stunts the growth of vines and ultimately kills them. Between 1863, when it first appeared in southern France, and 1890, when vineyards were replanted with hybrid vines (French stems were grafted onto phylloxera-resistant American roots), phylloxera destroyed 40 percent of the French vineyards. (MIT Economics)
The second wave of attack on Viognier occurred just over a half-century later with World War II. When Jancis Robinson, famous wine educator, was writing her boo, Vines, Grapes & Wines in 1985, she documented that there were only 32 hectares (80 acres) of Viognier in the entire world; almost exclusively in the Condrieu appellation on the right bank of the northern Rhône.
Today, thankfully, Viognier is planted all over the world, thanks to dedicated vintners, including Paso Robles. Beginning in the 1980s, winemakers resurrected their love for the grape. In 2024, there were over 15,000 tons of Viognier crushed and over 3,600 acres planted in California alone. (USDA crush report)
In the Vineyard
Viognier can be a challenging grape to cultivate due to its susceptibility to disease along with its inconsistent yields. It is, however, relatively tolerant to drought. Known to be an early budding and ripening variety, it is often one for the first whites to be harvested in a season. Although this tendency to bloom early can also be detrimental since it makes the vine vulnerable to spring frosts.
Winemaking tends to focus on the preservation of Viognier’s freshness. It lends itself to higher sugar levels and lower acidity and is more often than naught fermented and aged in stainless steel.
Viognier’s Allure
Intensely aromatic, Viognier is a gift for the nose. Offering vibrant notes of tangerine, mango, honeysuckle, rose and peach, it is almost sweet smelling. But don’t let the aromatics fool you, Viognier is typically a dry wine.
Viognier on the palate is lush and full bodied; often described as viscous. Its flavors include stone fruits and honey and be prepared for an exceptionally long finish. Serving the wine chilled (52oF) will enhance the aromatics and no decanting is necessary. It can age, but it is typically best enjoyed young when those pretty stone fruit and floral notes are singing in the glass.
Perfect Pairings
Viognier’s lush texture, floral aromatics and stone fruit flavors make it an easy wine to pair with your meal. Look to foods with stone fruit glazes such as roasted chicken with apricot glaze for Pork tenderloin with Peach chutney. For the vegetarians, pasta with lemon cream sauce or grilled halloumi with honey.
Look for dishes that complement the rich texture and floral aromatics while balancing the low acidity and fuller body. Choosing a creamy dish will pair with the lush mouthfeel. Mildly spicy cuisine works well with the floral and fruity notes in the wine. Roasted or grilled meats will bring out the wine’s natural stone fruits and any dishes with stone fruit and honey accents will mirror the wine’s profile.
Celebrate Viognier Day All Month
As we approach International Viognier Day on April 25th, there’s no better time to celebrate this beautifully aromatic and expressive white wine! Don’t limit the festivities to just one day, make April the month of Viognier by exploring different styles, trying new pairings, and sharing your love for this variety with friends. However you choose to enjoy it, raise a glass to this once-endangered grape that has made a remarkable comeback.
We have 6 Viogniers and many other interesting white wines in Downtown Paso!
About Lori Budd
With a passion for wine that bubbles like the finest Champagne, Lori Budd is a wine educator who loves bringing the joys of vino to others. A certified Spanish Wine Scholar and WSET Level 2 Award holder, Lori has mastered the nuances of wines from Albariño through Zinfandel. As a champagne specialist, she can sabrage a bottle open with flair while explaining what makes the region unique. Lori founded Cabernet Franc Day to spotlight this oft-overlooked Bordeaux variety. Based in Paso Robles wine country, she is dedicated to promoting the extraordinary region. When Lori pours, good times are sure to flow; she promises to never tell you what to drink, but she’ll always share what’s in her glass. Follow along her journey through her award winning blog and nationally ranked podcast; Exploring the Wine Glass.
